Lucy and the New Dawn Traders

Fare Traded by Sail

Nowhere to go but Norway

We were scheduled to leave Stavanger over a week ago… Then it was yesterday… Then our departure was scheduled for this morning at 8am… Now it’s tomorrow, Sunday, at 8am.

We have been delayed in safe harbour waiting out the storms and depressions in the North Sea. Wave after wave of low pressures are crossing the Atlantic, hitting the UK, west coast of Europe and the North Sea.

When the Captain, Lammert, checked the forecast this morning, it was clear the swell was still high (we had thought it would subside by now) and a westerly wind was blowing directly into the fjord. If we had left we would have been beating against the wind, and sailing straight into Force 9 winds. So we are still stuck in Stavanger…

As the full crew was up early, we decided to go through sail drills, safety and a quick meteorology lecture from the Captain. We had a lecture from Steven in dousing the sails and sequence of hauling and letting lose lines to stow away the sails. Plus some quick tests on which lines are which. In heavy weather it’s so important to be able to carry out orders fast.

I took the opportunity to practice scaling the rigging and manoevering along the yards. We have harnesses to wear while climbing the rat lines and out onto the yards. Practicing ready to furl and unfurl sails on a regular basis out at sea. It’s one thing climbing the rigging in port… Quite another out at sea. Just a little bit nervous!

After lunch half the crew ventured off in the dinghy to explore a nearby island. After a couple of hours wandering around and through a forest on the island, they returned hampered with large bags of foraged apples, walnuts and rosehips. Biz is making rosehip syrup, while Francois has his heart set on making a french style apple tart.

Meanwhile I’ve been editing this website while reading a bundle of papers about ‘slow food’, the historic fish trades of Norway and the Via Querissima route established in the 1400s between Italy and Norway.

We have been gifted a selection of fine Norwegian cheeses and 2 different types of Aquavit AKA Akevitt. I’m planning a tasting and lecture for one of the days at sea when we have fine weather.

One of the aquavit’s is the famous ‘linie’ aquavit, which has crossed the equator twice, on the motor ship, MV Tysla. Maybe they would like a sail shipped emission free Tres Hombres line?!

The other is a rather special local Akevitt called Yggdrasil. Yggdrasil Akevitt is made from barley and the name stems from Nordic mythology about the ‘tree of life’.

I’m in two minds about whether to stow the Aquavit until the Atlantic crossing and break it open on the line or not…

This evening we were joined aboard by Eivind, who runs a local chocolate shop called Sjokoladepiken. Tres hombres chocolate is now stocked in Norway in Eivinds shop. So now Norwegians can enjoy organic chocolate sailed, emission free, from the Caribbean. Eivinds chocolate shop sells the most incredible Mexican style hot chocolate. It’s dark, spicy with a chilli kick. It’s been fuelling our evenings the last 10 days in Stavanger.

Hopefully this is my last post before France and Lisbon. Our next port of call will be Douarnenez, to collect 4 barrels of French natural wine from artisan natural wine maker Olivier Cousin. Then onwards to Lisbon to deliver our cargo of Klippfish and load a cargo of olive oil.

Please send us fair winds and following seas. Thank you.

Lucy, New Dawn Traders.

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Explorers Festival 2013 Art Exhibition

I’m excited to have mine and Jamie Pikes ‘New Dawn Traders’ photographs exhibited in The EXPLORERS Gallery in Lisbon in a weeks time. The EXPLORERS Gallery is a collaboration between The EXPLORERS FESTIVAL 2013 and ART STATION curated by Xxavier Edward Carter and Fanni Foldvari powered by Konica Minolta.

The exhibition will feature photography by local and international artists four rooms have been populated under the themes of Exploring Trade, Exploring Balance, Exploring Light, and Exploring Landscape. New Dawn Traders will feature aptly in the ‘Exploring trade’ theme.

“Through the experience of this collaborative effort we encounter the real life images of lives seeking to define their journeys through artistic means. We the curators encourage you to consider these lives and through the use of artistic expression embrace practices that engage the social, racial, cultural, economic, and political mechanisms for a positive change when developing your life.” Xxavier Edward Carter, 2013.

Excited to be featured in my first Art exhibition! If you are in Lisbon get down to see it. I’ll post photographs once I arrive, by sail ship aboard SV Tres Hombres, into Lisbon in 2 weeks time.

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The rigging and lines. Now to remember them all…. This is my challenge for the next week…

Blessed are the cheesemakers especially if you are a sailor…

On my last voyage cheese was a continual bone of contention. Long voyages require rationing of cheese. Cheese, for some reason, is one of the most craved foods aboard. It must be the combo of fat and salt that in the colder wetter weather is totally irresistible.

We have some incredible organic aged Dutch Gouda cheese on board which is produced, I think, by a man who lives in Friesland in a lighthouse. It’s really amazing but we have strictly divided it up into 30 portions to have 1/8th of a wheel of cheese a week so the crew can still enjoy exceptional Dutch Cheese after the Caribbean.

Fortunately for us, the Slow Food president of Norway, Ove Fossa, stopped by the ship and offered to take us on a local cheese tour! Before we even left the dock Ove presented us with a local Norwegian delicacy of ‘Brunost’ AKA brown cheese which is made from boiled whey. It has an unusual taste a bit like a combination of toffee and cheese.

We visited a delicatessen which specialises in the regional cheeses. Particularly of note was an aged hard goats cheese manufactured by a ‘presidio’ Slow Food selected producer. We then headed via the beach at Sola to meet cheese activist, raw milk cheese producer and farmer Hans Voll at his dairy. In order to see around the dairy we had to walk through a bath of disinfectant and wear funny little blue shoe covers and lab gowns. The smell was really distinctive in the processing room.

Hans was instrumental in overturning the ban in Norway on producing cheese from raw milk. Raw milk cheese production was banned from 1952-1997. Hans makes his cheese in small daily batches immediately from unpasturised milk direct from the mornings milking on his farm. The curdling process is started almost immediately and most of the whey is strained off to prevent the presence of sugars stimulating feeding acidifying bacteria in the cheese. The type of cheese produced at the end is similar to a ‘raclette’ cheese and really tasty melted.

The cheeses need polishing twice a week to remove surface moulds on the rinds which would otherwise prevent good air circulation.

We got to sample a ridiculous amount of cheese and left with very full cheese bellies and a round to share with the rest of the crew back at the ship where we found Amaury, our Belgian 1st mate, making cauliflower cheese. Our new cheesy acquisition was swiftly grated into the mix.

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Recipe – Cheese soup from Jaeren

cook 1 litre of vegetable soup

Melt 100 g butter and blend with flour

slowly blend with veg stock and let simmer

Add 3 dessert spoons of milk

Add 1 cup carrots and a cauliflower

Salt and pepper to taste

Simmer 10 mintues and then add 300 g of grated Jaeren cheese

Serve with bread

Slow fish adventures in Stavanger, Norway

Tres Hombres Ship will be receiving a fabulous sustainable Slow Food cargo of Stockfish destined for Lisbon, Portugal.Stockfish is a traditional fish product from Norway and is one of the protect ‘Ark of Taste‘ flavours chosen by the Slow Food presidio. The Ark of taste campaign seeks to find and protect traditional artisan foods, tastes and flavours around the globe. Many thanks to Ove Fosså, the Slow Food Norway President and Terje Ingerhaug for their help in recreating this historic trade.

Terje sailed with Tres Hombres 3 years ago when Tres Hombres collected a fine cargo of Norwegian produce coordinated by Ove and delivered by the power of the wind to Cardiff. Tres hombres ship were delighted to host Ove for dinner on the ship last night and hear details of this trade.

The crew of the Tres Hombres have been having their own Slow fish Slow Food adventures in Port, hand-smoking herring and experimenting with delicious salt fish recipes. Check out our photos here.Image

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